Three seasons into her position as Creative Director of Alexander McQueen and Sarah Burton appears to be sitting comfortably in the Master's chair. On the back of two beautiful, well crafted menswear collections, the S/S 12 collection showcased at Milan this week was a continuation of form for Burton. The McQueen aesthetic is still there, the british quirkiness, the sharp tailoring, and the translucent sense of macabre and destruction. Yet I feel Burton is beginning to find her own signature with label.
The collection conjures up references of 70's Glam, Let It Bleed era Stones and even reminded me in parts of Dior Homme under Hedi Slimane. The tailoring was as exquisite as ever, even visiting the realms of the Nudie Suit, to great effect.